We woke before the sun today in order to be out of camp early to begin making our way to the top of Half Dome (8,845'). The call for coffee came around 5:15 a.m. and was followed up by a quick bowl of dry granola, goji berries, milk powder and water. With that, we headed out from the burn zone toward Half Dome.
Rising nearly 5,000 feet above Yosemite Valley and 8,800 feet above sea level, Half Dome is a Yosemite icon and a great challenge to many hikers. Despite an 1865 report declaring that it was "perfectly inaccessible, being probably the only one of the prominent points about the Yosemite which never has been, and never will be, trodden by human foot," George Anderson reached the summit in 1875, in the process laying the predecessor to today's cable route.
Today, thousands of people reach the summit. For most, it is an exciting, arduous hike; for a few, it becomes more of an adventure than they wanted. Indeed, park rangers assist hundreds of people on the Half Dome trail every summer. Most of these emergencies could have been prevented (nps.gov).
A permit is required to hike to Half Dome seven days per week when the cables are up. The rules are now changing and will exclude through hikers from making this climb, reserving Half Dome for day trippers. See Yosemite websites for details. We were lucky to get permits for this trip as a result of our well-respected guiding company.
Together we left camp around 6 a.m. with the goal of reaching Half Dome before the day-tripping crowds. The route to the sub-dome (below Half Dome) is about 3 miles (4.8 km) in distance. We travelled along the JMT through mainly forested areas, to the Half Dome side trail ascent. Along the JMT we came upon a California Mule Deer having breakfast, and many mountain squirrels.
John Muir says the following about half dome in his writings based on his first summer in the Sierra:
"The treat Tissiack, or Half Dome, rising at the upper end of the valley to a height of nearly a mile, is nobly proportioned and lifelike, the most impressive of all the rocks, holding the eye in devout admiration, calling it back again and again from falls or meadows, or even the mountains beyond - marvellous cliffs, marvellous in sheer dizzy depth and sculpture, types of of endurance. Thousands of years has it stood in the sky exposed to rain, snow, frost, earthquake and avalanche, yet it still wears the bloom of youth" (John Muir, 1869, 1911).
As we neared Sub Dome, we stopped for a rest at a lookout facing North East over Tenaya Creek. Here we left one of our gang to rest in the shade, bypassing the climb. Ensuring she was comfortable, and we were ready to go, we headed toward the ranger post and the beginning of the rock staircase up Sub Dome. It wasn't too long before another of our friends made the tough decision to turn back, heading back to the lookout with guide Sierra, to relax and wait.
Four friends and guide Wilson continued up the stairs, being sure footed and concentrated. Before we knew it we had reached the top of this portion of the climb and were able to re-hydrate. We dropped our packs and poles in a crevice of rocks and prepared to ascend the cables. It was 9 a.m.
With specific instruction from Wilson, on everything from etiquette to foot position, we reached the summit via the famous Cable Route. Near the top we stopped while Wilson ventured outside of the cables to get some pictures.
We made it to the top in about 17 minutes! This is epic because guide Wilson reports that we are the second fastest group he has brought up the cables, out of about 8 groups.
The ascent is exhilarating and the views are intoxicating! We were rewarded with views in all directions. South and east over our previous days' route. North and West over Yosemite valley 4,800 feet below. All my favourite peaks were within site, again. Wilson had brought along some sugared liquorice (delicious) and we devoured that with our water.
We got many, many great pictures on Half Dome. Wilson sent us out on the "visor" (I didn't know quite what this meant until I saw it from a different angle later) and took our picture. The visor is a daunting ledge that hangs out over the Yosemite valley below. The women I was with seemed unfazed by this ledge, but I certainly felt significant anxiety sitting out on it!
After we had enjoyed the views and exhilaration of being on top of this massive rock, we prepared to head back down the cables. Instruction from Wilson helped us with technique and nerves. On this backward descent it was important to use your hands to belay gently down the slope, moving your feet accordingly. We could see that the day tourists were pooling on sub dome to make the climb up which meant that we would meet some people on the way down the cables. We were instructed to move to the left cable only in order to allow ascending people to pass on the right. This could be slightly unnerving depending on the skill of the person we might be passing. There were some scary moments for a few of our group while a less abled man descended behind them, facing downhill, and rushing from a place of fear.
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| The "How to get Down" lesson |
Once we were safely back on SubDome we were able to bask in the wonder of the experience. With adrenaline flowing we managed back down the steep rock steps. At the base of SubDome, we were required to show our permits to the Park Ranger who was now in place for the day. Many people without permits were gathering here in the hopes of bartering for extra permits for the ascent, with what appeared to be very little luck.
We returned to gather with our two resting friends and guide Sierra before heading back down the side trail to the JMT. Once on the JMT, with some distance from the many day hikers, we were able to stop for lunch. Wilson and Sierra treated us to delicious Naan bread "pitas" with arugula, fig spread, goat cheese and onion. The creek nearby served to refill water. We spotted more lizards and a tiny frog. This water source is a part of Sunrise Creek (lower) further along the trail from our site in the burn zone. A mountain squirrel, who appeared to be more the size of a large rat, was quite interested in our lunches.
After a long, relaxing lunch, we made our way back to the camp site at the burn zone, beneath Cloud's Rest and debated climbing Cloud's Rest for the afternoon. Instead we wandered down to the creek and bathed. Poor Wilson was relegated to the uplands while the women washed selves and clothing this afternoon. There was plenty of time for reading, writing, chit chat and my bracelet craft. We indulged in afternoon coffee and a cashew/sesame seed snack.
Supper included Miso soup and gluten free pasta. Delicious! Supper was capped off with Special Hot Chocolate with Canadian Whiskey to celebrate our ascent of Half Dome. We hung around the fire pit and discussed the next day's adventures, which would take us along the JMT over to Cathedral.
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| Ahhh....trail dust |
And, so, the round trip 9 mile (14.5 km) day to and from Half Dome, the ascent of Half Dome, and the evening celebration came to a close on a high note!
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