The Merced, Echo Valley and setting up for Half Dome

July 6, 2016

From Merced River, Triple Peak Fork to High Sierra Camp through Echo Valley, onto the JMT to Sunrise Creek

After a breakfast of oatmeal full of nuts and dried fruits for protein and sustenance, and strong camp coffee, the group packed up and headed away from the beautiful Merced river camp site. We continued along following the Merced around Washburn lake. We were delighted to see a ranger's cabin and property followed by the famous Sierra High Camp. 

Ranger Property

The Merced High Sierra Camp, not far from this ranger station, is one of nine rustic lodging facilities located in two national parks and a national monument in California's Sierra Nevada mountain range. Open most years from June or July to September, they are staffed camps with tent cabins and food service facilities. The backcountry camps receive their supplies by pack mules.

Seven camps are located in Yosemite National Park. Five of these camps are located off the road in the wilderness, and are accessible only by hiking or by horseback riding, like the one we passed at Merced Lake.

These camps, in conjunction with Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, make it possible to "backpack for six days without carrying a backpack. You can carry a day pack and spend each night at one of the High Sierra camps, complete with bedding and meals". These camps provide "a fantastic way for visitors who enjoy a warm bed, a hot shower and a hearty meal to enjoy the beauty of the backcountry."The complete loop, which offers a "maximum in scenic beauty", has a hiking length, without side trips, estimated at 51.0 miles (82.1 km). (Wikipedia)

The Merced Lake High Sierra Camp is the lowest elevation of the camps at 7,150 feet (2,180 m), and is located on Merced Lake on the Merced River. It is directly upstream from Yosemite Valley and is the most accessible of the camps from the Valley by hiking, at a distance of 13.0 miles (20.9 km). Because of its comparatively low elevation, this camp is relatively warm and is located in a heavily wooded area.

The camp site was originally a US Cavalry patrol outpost beginning in 1905.^[12] The site became one of the original hikers' camps built in 1916, and closed in 1918 during World War I. It reopened as a boy's sports camp in 1922, featuring tennis, basketball, baseball, boating, fishing, hiking and swimming. Yosemite Park and Curry Company began operating the camp in 1926. (borrowed from Wikipedia)

We were able to have our morning snack on a camp site at the High Sierra Camp, which was just beginning to be opened for the season. There was great disappointment, however, when we realized that the flush toilets were still locked from the off season, and no garbage disposal was available to dump our soiled toilet paper! We did however run into another group guided by SYMG guide Fred. They were on a different trip but were due to overlap us today, later this evening and in passing tomorrow morning.

Lunch along the way today included smoked salmon (teriyaki tofu for the vegetarians), fresh dill, capers, and cheese (cream or goat?) on Wasa Crisp Bread. Delicious! 

 

Along the trail we saw two Sooty Grouse, more lizards, Anderson's Thistle (with pink flower, vertical head and hairless purple stem), Wandering Daisies (above 7,000ft) and Sierra Daisies (alpine or subalpine regions but typically above 9,500ft). Through Echo Valley, in the distance our views included Ansel Adams (again and again), Mount Clark, Bunnell Point and Moraine Dome. We regained our lost elevation as we traversed large granite ridges enjoying spectacular views of Little Yosemite Valley. Eventually we got a peek at Half Dome as we neared the JMT and our camp at Sunrise Creek.

Grouse, running away from my camera

Throughout our day, we saw many VERY large pinecones, littering the forest floors. Having fallen from the mountain pines, they blanketed many areas adjacent to the trail. The more pinecones we saw, the more activities we dreamed up to DO with them. Pinecone baseball, soccer, golf, bowling and 'rocky cone'.... Some of these activities came to fruition over the next day or so, to the entertainment (? or not?) of our guides. 

The trail eventually led us to Sunrise Creek where we camped at the base of Cloud's Rest (0.1m on the JMT). This camp sits in a burn zone, a zone which is so large you can see its path from various elevations along the trail stretching for tens of miles, and which we walked through in order to reach this camp. 

The fire in this area occurred two summers ago leaving destruction in its path. Wilson tells us that the difference in pioneer plant growth from last summer to today is startling. Pioneer plants are the first hardy plants to grow after such serious disturbance as fire. They improve the poor soil as if preparing it for the more complex, bio-diverse plants to come. Common pioneers which recolonize the soil include lichens and mosses. Additionally, fast growing, aggressive plants such as non-native seed plants, or "weeds", take control. They then provide shade for native grasses, shrubs, and trees to repopulate over time. Wilson made the observation that this year the waist high alpine thistles were new growth adding to the mosses and lichen he observed the summer after the fire. 

 

Above: JMT sign!
Above: burnt out tree, shell left only

Mt. Cloud's Rest with burnt out trees alongside Sunrise Creek

Sunset over camp









Upon reaching camp, we set about washing up and pitching tents. Initially the forest camp felt eerie after the beauty of the Merced. The remaining trees were soot black and were surrounded by grand holes in the ground, while other trees burned right down through their root systems. The ground here was very dry with a large amount of dusty ash. It was difficult to piece together the beauty of the high sierra with the destruction within the burn zone. It took some time for the uniqueness of this area to shine through around camp. It was a part of Yosemite that SHOULD be seen. It presents an important look at reality. It just took one look at the creek, with its new green growth, to find the charm here. 

We wrapped up washing feet, body, and clothes just in time as the all-male SYMG group, we had met earlier in the day, arrived to camp nearby. As Wilson and Sierra prepared appetizer and supper, various pine cone activities took place! 

A "mystic circle" was found, with trees and rocks in a perfect circle. Pine cone games moved over to this paranormal, magical area of the burnt forest. It was said that the pine cone was thrown INTO the ring but was enigmatically blocked from entering, adding to the story of the circle as being impenetrable! This, of course, added to the mystery of the burnt forest.

We suppered on Miso soup and green curry and rice and sweet potato, as the guys settled in next-door. Delicious by the way, Wilson! After chocolate truffles for dessert, we discussed the plan for tomorrow. The much anticipated Half-Dome summit meant we would get up at 4:30a.m. to prepare to hike the 9mile round trip. (The bar of expectations regarding getting up this early in the morning needed to be adjusted slightly for this crowd, however we WERE able to be up, dressed, and fed to leave prior to 6am). 

Discussions of measurement of pain, foot sores, fear about Half-Dome ensued this evening. I felt exhausted, and this coupled with anti-inflammatories, caused me to feel delusional and silly. I, shortly followed by the others, hobbled to my tent to get some sleep.

We had covered 9 miles (14.5 km) today whilst regaining our lost elevation, to position us below Half Dome.

Following the Triple Peak Fork

July 5th, 2016

Happily, we wake to brewed coffee and Sierra's kind voice "Coffee's ready girls", outside of our tent. Sierra and Wilson followed coffee with a mediterranean egg dish that included feta cheese, olives, basil, spinach and more. It was delicious and full of sustenance to get us through today's hike. We are allowed a later start and a more relaxed pace as we plan to cover 9 miles (14.5 km), mainly downhill.

The grand downhill takes us through the creek drainages that eventually form the mighty Merced River. The Triple Peak Fork is one of three forks that feed into the Merced from higher elevations. Lyell Peak Fork and Merced Peak Fork meet with Triple Peak creating a wild and beautiful Merced. The Red Peak Fork joins the Merced further west before Washburn Lake along the trail. The downhill was hard on the knees and legs at times, and one of our women struggled with knee pain which originally flared up on the ascent of Isberg the following day. 

Along the route today we see, in the distance, Mount Ansel Adams, Forester Peak, Electra, Mount Clark, Merced Peak, Tuolumne, Matthes Crest, Mount Hoffman, Columbia Finger, Moraine Dome, and Red Peak. The views continue to be outstanding and it seems that one surpasses the next. Additionally, in light of our decent, we are blessed with beautiful meadows, waterfalls and swimming holes. We drop 2,500 feet over roughly 9 miles (14.5 km). 

Water Pumping & Snack break along the Triple Peak Fork

While we rested we talked about what we had seen so far. The various mountain ranges, the forks, the rock and geology. The alpine manzanita was everywhere on our decent. After our snack of trail mix, we carried on with our day. Shortly we stopped to observe chatter marks in the rock along the river. Wilson spoke about the geology of the area, marks such as these reminiscent of the glaciers having pushed rock against rock, downhill,  as it worked to shape what we now see as valleys. 

Lunch was at a beautiful falls along our path. The falls itself was breathtaking. Again part of the Triple Peak pounding off of rock cliffs into a valley far below, surrounded by mountain faces. Feasting on teriyaki tofu, hummus, pepper, and cucumber, trail mix, tasty cashews in coconut powder, we wondered at the beauty of this place.

The Merced!

View from the falls

Falls drop off

Making it's way to the Merced

After lunch we carried on, moving casually along the trail, sometimes in silence and other times with chatter. Before long we reached our camp, along the Merced River, west of the Merced Peak and Lyell Peak Forks. The beauty of this camp is astounding leaving one speechless. The smooth, flat rock face, that stretches for hundreds of metres is bordered by trail and a small forested area on one side, and the rushing Merced on the other. 

As Wilson and Sierra set up our kitchen and began to prep a snack, we actively set up tents and unpacked gear. Before long we were all yearning to get in the water, so Wilson set out to direct us to the best swimming holes. At this location, there is a fun natural water slide that is often enjoyed by YGT'ers on trip here. Wilson headed for the slide to test it out for our safety and to demonstrate sliding technique. With the water being so high this year, after a heavy winter's snowfall, the river made quick work of sending Wilson sailing down the rock slide! In a matter of seconds, Wilson was pulling himself out of the river. For a moment we thought we might lose him over a small falls, but Wilson remained composed and unruffled. In a calm, rational tone Wilson stated that this slide "isn't safe this year" and he quickly redirected us to the higher and lower swimming holes. 

After refreshing swims in the lower river, we all enjoyed some rest. Wilson and Sierra were able to relax along with us, napping, reading, and chatting. We quickly referred to this day as "laundry day" as we had sufficient water and time to soak, scrub and hang dry our clothing. 

While we lounged, several lizards were visible. Sierra's field guide book came in handy to look up which species were sharing our camp with. These little guys were called Wastern Sagebrush Lizards, common to mid-elevation. One fellow made quite a scene with his 'push up' display behaviour. Along the trail at higher elevations, we saw many larger crocodile lizards, but they were quick to move along without taking the time to display themselves.

The Mighty Merced, camp on left side

Can you tell where this is heading?

Testing the safety of the water slide

Brave guide Wilson heading down the river

Laundry racks

Quiet Time

Western Sagebrush Lizard

Foot care, by SUPER guides, on the long trek

We wrapped up our day with a delicious supper of penne pasta with pesto and chocolates for dessert, while sitting around a warm spirited fire. 

A laughable, and memorable moment, occurred this evening when one of our women headed into the woods for a toilet pit stop. So, for those of you who aren't familiar, toileting in the backcountry follows a "leave no trace" philosophy. What this amounts to is digging a hole for excrement and burying what you leave behind. However all toilet paper is packed out in a personal trash bag. Digging holes and burying waste is a big deal in the wild. The last thing anyone wants is to head out to a private spot in the woods and come upon someone else's already soiled spot. One of our women was unlucky enough to choose another's special toilet hole for her own, unbeknownst to her! Yikes,....and a shovel from the toileting kit is "compromised"!! Yuck. If we were any where near civilization at that moment, we might have encouraged her to buy a few lottery tickets.

Prior to bed tonight we reviewed tomorrow's route with Wilson. We would travel another 9 miles along the Merced to meet up with the John Muir Trail (JMT). An early-ish morning would be in order.

Knoblock Meadow to 10K lake via Isberg Pass

July 4, 2016

The group crawled out of tents early this morning encouraged along by the smell of freshly brewed camp coffee. Wilson, our lead guide, would have had us out earlier but this had created dissension among the crowd the evening before (groans, mumbles and the like). He was patient as we packed and readied ourselves for the journey to Isberg Pass. Iceberg sits at 11,100' and the trek to the top clearly is an all day, mainly uphill, sub-alpine and alpine climb. Along the way, backpackers can see Sadler Lake and McLure Lake along the west side of the trail and Sadler Peak to the East. Before long the beauty of Ansel Adams is before us.

Knoblock Meadow to Isberg Pass and beyond

Various breaks for water and snacks allowed us to soak in the enormity of this this special location. Lunch at the alpine lake included warps of almond butter, honey, apple, walnut and aged cheddar cheese. Trail mix was a great way of keeping the group at bay as our diligent guides prepared this, and ALL of our delicious meals. 

Up Isberg Pass

After lunch, the group pressed on. It was up, up, and more up as rock led to more rock to climb. The climb was exhilarating, and sometimes daunting for those with sensitivity to heights. Past Sierra Alligator lizards at mid to high elevation and on to fields of snow high upon the ridge of the pass. As we approached the peak, Mount Ansel Adams came into view, a fan favourite!

A well earned break at the top of Isberg Pass allowed for spectacular views in all directions. The Pass marks the official border of Yosemite, where it meets the Sierra National Forest. Day 2 was suddenly my favourite! From Isberg, looking west, we could see the Clark Range with Mount Clark in the distance. Looking NNE the view is of Ansel Adams and Foerster Peak. And looking ahead down into the valley below us we peered at 10K Lake, in an Alpine meadow, our camp for the night. It seemed so close but the trail itself from the top of the pass to the lake in the distance encompasses about 3 miles of rocky decent, forest floor and meadow crossing. 

Our lakeside camp at the headwaters of the Merced River, was surrounded by picturesque 11,000 to 12,000 foot peaks. In total we hiked 9.4 miles (15.1km) to reach this alpine gem.

While battling the millions of mosquitoes, the guides prepared supper while the women prepared their tents. A quick dip in the alpine, snow fed, freezing waters of 10k lake brought relief to sore feet. The women dressed warmly with long underwear, sweaters, jackets and hats to enjoy the cool evening in the mountains. 

Between caprese appetizers and a fantastic supper of sausage, onion, zucchini, spinach and a balsamic reduction, the women explored the area. It wasn't long before bear paw prints had been identified in the sand heading off toward the Triple Peak Fork. This created mixed response from the women, some angst and some excitement. 

Day 2 was topped off by a beautiful sunset, alpinglow reflecting on the surrounding mountains and a beautiful starry night.

The Pass

Looking to the WNW from Isberg Pass

A break at the top

Entering Yosemite

It was fascinating to be able to see 2-3 days ahead on our route from such a distance. The mountains in the distance seemed like worlds away, and yet we approached them within days.....and each point is just another "mile, mile and a half".